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Tom Ashworth of Yapp Brothers, an old-established family firm of wine merchants in Witlshire, thinks the sheer volume produced for the supermarkets and by the big champagne houses is suspect

" People are concerned about what goes in their sausages but when it comes to champagne, it can be a factory product. There is a diminishing number of people who both grow the fruit and make the champagne, and we champion people who have control from vine to glass " he says.

The soundness of this strategy is underscored by the critical acclaim given to top wine writers to teh champagne he imports from J. DUMANGIN Fils, a small grower-producer..

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